Axis Wakeboard Boat Forum

[quote="Walter"][/quote]

Do you happen to have a list of the parts that you bought to make your new 'T'd hose?

No I went to a hardware store and just looked around until I found what I wanted and then just put it all together. I think it was 1 1/2 inch hose, a barbed T, and a barbed reducer with threads that I could put a reducer bushing in.

You stock hose is shaped differently than mine. It may also be bigger as mine showed 1 1/4" by the measuring tape. I'm still piecing mine together. Lowe's selection sucked!

Ok. First off have a shortie 5/8" racheting wrench. This is invaluable to removing the lower two hidden bolts on the v-drive. Secondly, you may not have enough room to remove your v-drive. I didn't because the factory mounted my gas tank too far rearward and I had to unscrew it and us a pry bar to slide it forward. Third, the v-drive coolant hoses are a bitch to remove! I ended up dremeling through the edge to get them off, so I have to replace both of them. Fourth, I used a three way puller that I ended up stripping the threads on and the flange still didn't budge.

So, I'm currently waiting til tomorrow to get a cross puller and use the threads on the actual flange instead. So needless to say, not every boat is the same. The oj dripless seal kit came with a 1" tee fitting to feed the seal, but my cooling line is 1 1/4".

I just found a site that ships a pretty good selection. The male pipe thread to barbed end that the cool water feed line is attached to and that is included in the kit but with a 1" barbed fitting vice 1-1/4". I just used that part from my kit and attached it to the 1-1/4" barbed x 1-1/4" barbed x 1/2" FPT that I bought from here. https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?cart ... =Barb-Tees

Man that sucks you had to move the fuel tank too! Mine has just enough room to slide right off, but the hoses were a pain, I had to take one hose of with the v-drive. Check at Ace hardware, that may be where I found the T fitting, the 1" that yours came with will probably work fine, it was designed to put on the water hose just before the exhaust manifold, the dealer only sent me the seal and housing, I had to get my own T and hoses that's why I did it like I did. I just wanted cool water on the seal, that also sucks you broke your puller, I used a snap-on steering wheel puller on mine, it may use a harder pressure screw, I busted on it fast with an impact to pop it loose, after time that shaft tends to stick itself in the flange.

My 2011 (new in 2012) has 45 hours on it and the seal is now leaking like a hose on 1/2 way. Not sure if I just need to adjust or I should be changing it. How easy is it to adjust without moving the V-drive?

Thanks

Adjusting can be tricky but it's definitely easier than replacing the whole thing, it just depends on what you want

I want to be back on the water and spend as little as possible. What happens when they go? They just need to be repacked or are they destroyed and need to be replaced? As I have a late 2011 A20, I am going out to confirm if it is dripless or not.

According to my owners manual, it states that it has a dripless which I thought was only 2012+.

Walter. I have a 2010 with 261 hours that is leaking at the prop seal. Not bad but a steady drip. I don't think I can tackle your project though I would love that new seal. Any suggestions on how to tighten the existing nut? As you know it is very hard to get to. Any idea on what tool would fit? Very hard to get channel locks in there.